We are at the very heart of Galicia’s best kept secret, Ribeira Sacra.

I wake up and pull open the immaculate white curtains of the house. We’re staying at a 16th Century property rented by a family who lives nearby. It’s summer of 2020 and we’re at a strange impasse between pandemic waves and a disproportionate optimism.

Things didn’t get any better, we know that now. However, this stone house provided some necessary quietness and a breath of fresh air.

We are at the very heart of Galicia’s best kept secret, Ribeira Sacra. A thick fog makes its way through the green surroundings of the house and there’s a timid light coming into the room. Coffee is ready, maps are out and we are fully prepared to start discovering valleys, monasteries and vineyards. This is not meant to be a detailed journal of our days there, but a brief introduction to the experiences and places we did enjoy and still remember the most.

Ribeira Sacra is the closest example we can find from real disconnection last year. Our house in Pombar barely knows what Wi-Fi is, so it is a true relief to really explore with a camera in hand the wonders of the region.

Some of the better-known attractions are its natural viewpoints, from where one can admire the stunning panoramic views of enormous cliffs, countless ancient terraces of vineyards and a real-life patchwork of evergreen and arid brown – even in the hot days of August. But above it all, the Sil River captures our view – as far into the valley as we can make out.

For our own surprise, some of the best viewpoints manage to create a contemporary beauty that connects the architectural structure with the spirit of the Ribeira. Some of our favourite viewpoints might be ‘A Columna’ or ‘Pena do Castelo’.

This land is also home for several legends and myths with a proliferation of multiple monasteries. The one not to miss is named Mosterio de Santo Estevo and lays in the wooded Sil Valley since the 12th Century. The monastery is currently a luxurious boutique hotel, but visitors are free to wander around and have a coffee. While Sil and Miño rivers are the leading figures, Mao river is famous for its magical and unique surroundings – a landscape to find peace.

Back in the day, the Celtic culture regarded these oak trees forests as sacred and it was the natural habitat of monks and hermits to practice meditation We recommend you to climb up and finish the whole walkway tour to get some impressive views of the estuary between Sil river and Mao river.

At Doade, a few kilometres towards Monforte de Lemos, the Algueira winery produces some of Ribeira Sacra’s best wines. The region is highly known for its wine tradition and we couldn’t miss the chance to try some Mencías and Godellos. We were also fortunate enough to chat with Fabián, the current owner of this family project that started back in the 80s.

Wine-making is, indeed, a true challenge in a region with varying microclimates and a difficult orography. We made sure to take a couple of Mencías to our Pombar home and stopped for lunch at their restaurant, O Castelo.

However, the real icing of the cake is travelling by catamaran along the rivers. It is the most spectacular way to discover the Ribeira Sacra in all its splendor. Vineyards and steep landscapes are all around. We’re mentally still seated on the upper part of the Santo Estevo catamaran, waiting for a tranquil sunset on the Sil and a sip (or two) or Mencía afterwards.